PLANTING TREES

Introduction

All trees - ornamental woodland and fruit trees - are best planted on receipt. Tree roots store nourishment which is used to regenerate themselves when transplanted, fuel growth in spring, survive droughts and fight disease. As the roots dry out, that nourishment is lost and cannot be replaced. Dry roots mean dead trees; so if you can't plant your tree immediately then heel it into some soft earth immediately, and if you can't do that then leave the tree in its packaging out of the wind.

Preparation

Prepare a planting hole no more than 2ft (60cm) deep and about 3ft (100cm) in diameter. Improve the soil from the hole by removing roots and large stones, breaking up the clods and working in a little well rotted manure or a very little bonemeal.

Ensure that drainage is good, especially in heavy soil. This can often be done by just jabbing the sides and bottom of the planting hole with a garden fork. However if you are planting on poor draining soils such as clay, try and plant on relatively high ground, keep the hole shallow (30cms) and plant the tree high, so that you have to mound earth up to cover its roots. This ensures at least some drainage while the roots are establishing themselves, but do make sure the mound does not wash away.

Planting

Hammer a good stout Tree Stake vertically into the hole on the windward side of the tree before planting (this avoids root damage and you can use the stake to support the tree while you are planting it). Always tie the tree low down so the roots do not move but the trunk can flex in the wind. Use one Buckle and Strap tree tie (for trees up to 8/10 cms girth) or two for larger trees. The buckle and strap fixing allows you to slacken off the tie as the tree grows.

With the stake in the ground spread out the roots, trimming the end of any damaged ones with sharp secateurs. Keep the root collar (shown by the "high tide" mark left by the soil level in the field where the tree was grown previously) level with the finished level of the soil in the hole. If you are using a Mycorrhizal biostimulant (friendly fungi) to help establishment, sprinkle the contents of the sachet on to and around the around the roots of the tree. Backfill with the improved soil from the hole, gently firming down with the ball of your foot as you go (don't stamp!). Water very well indeed.

Aftercare

After planting, keep a weed-free circle of 3ft (100cm) diameter around each tree (weeds include grass). Mulch mats are ideal for this as they degrade over about 18-24 months, but do not mulch on badly drained ground as water can be trapped under the matting leading to various (often fatal) root diseases.